Hanging drywall correctly depends as much on using the right tools as it does on following the correct process. To hang dry wall correctly, the panels should first be placed on the ceiling. This allows them to be supported by the drywall panels that form the walls. When hanging the ceiling panels, it is best to use a dry wall jack. The easy to use, hand operated jack holds the panel firmly in place on a level plane, preventing it from cracking due to unequal pressure and ensuring that the panel rests directly against the ceiling joists.

When the drywall is measured and ready to be affixed to the ceiling and wall joists, either ring shank nails or screws can be used to hold it in place. 1-1/4" screws or rink shank nails should be used for 1/2" drywall. Considering the sizable number of screws or nails used in most drywall projects, 12" apart on ceiling joists and 16" apart on wall joists, a screw gun is one of the most time saving drywall hand tools available. The screws or nails should be driven slightly beneath the surface of the drywall.

Most screw guns automatically place the screw at its ideal depth. When using nails, a special drywall hammer with a rounded head is used to place the nails at their proper depth. A stud remover and installer kit is another drywall tool that can save time, especially when a misplaced screw needs to be removed without damaging the drywall.

Throughout the drywall hanging process, a level should be applied to each hung drywall panel to insure that it is not sloping. Even the smallest deviation from a level plane can cause a room seem bigger at one end, or make a drywall-lined column look as if it is "twisting" from top to bottom.

Once the drywall is secured to the studs, a metal corner bead is nailed to the outside corners to prevent them from chipping. The seams between the drywall panels are then "taped" over using joint tape to allow for a smooth coat of paint. Finally, joint compound is applied with a metal or plastic scraper to the corner beads, screw or nail depressions and other minor blemishes.

Once the joint compound is dry, it is smoothed with sandpaper to remove any raised portions. An electric sander is ideal in this situation. It requires less effort than hand sanding and its flat surface insures that the wall is sanded perfectly flat. After sanding, the drywall is ready for paint.

Hanging drywall is not a difficult process, especially when the wall joists and insulation are already in place. However, it is one of the most detail-oriented processes that a homeowner can undertake. If the measurements are not precise or the drywall is not level, there is nothing left to do but tear it out and start over again. Once the necessary drywall tools have been acquired and the process steps have been laid out, the key to success becomes using a tape measure and a level with great vigilance.

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Hanging Drywall

If you have ever taken the time to watch a skilled tradesman hang drywall, you marvel at how fast and easy it seems to be for them. I have seen friends in the trade use nothing more than a tape measure and a utility knife to make all the necessary cuts and cut-outs. For the average homeowner who may want to save a few bucks on a home construction project by doing it himself or with a helper, hanging drywall can be very intimidating, especially if you have never done it before. There is real physical labor involved here, especially if you are by yourself. I just remodeled my own bathroom recently which wasn’t bad since it was only 8 feet x 8 feet. What about a larger room such as a new family room in the basement? I have good news for you. It can be done by yourself or with a helper with a little patience and instruction.

The goal of this article is to help those who may be just starting out or who are a novice. It will cover the basics of drywalling. The experienced veterans and tradesman have their own way of doing things and have developed their own techniques, shortcuts and trade secrets. If you are just starting out, I would suggest buying an extra sheet or two of drywall when estimating your job. You will make mistakes and there is no better teacher than experience. If you have a friend who is skilled at drywall, I suggest you by him a case of his favorite beer and have him come over and give you some pointers as you work.

Lets start out by looking at what tools and supplies you will need to complete your job. First thing on the list is the drywall. we need to understand that with drywalling, there is a certain amount of waist involved. We always want to use the largest pieces possible to create the least amount of seams. The less seams there are to tape and spackle the better off you will be and the smoother your walls will look. For instance, if I am building a 10 feet x 10 foott room in my basement, if at all possible I want to purchase 12 foot drywall boards. Sure you lose two feet to waist but imagine how many more seams there would be if you used 8 foot boards. Next we need a good cordless drill/driver along with at least 2 or 3 batteries. I also like to have two chargers so I always have one battery charging and one battery at full charge. My personal preference is an 18 volt cordless drill. Some people prefer 14.4 volt for this project. I have found that a good 18 volt variable speed cordless drill can take care of just about any job around the house, big or small. You can find anything you need in regards to a cordless drill at justcordlessdrills.com. A good supply of magnetic screw gun bits are needed also. With 1/2″ sheetrock, I like to use 1 1/2 or 1 5/8 sheetrock screws. I also like to glue my boards to the studs, especially the ceiling so a couple of tubes of adhesive such as Liquid Nails and a caulking gun is needed. For the beginner, invest in a 4 foot sheetrock square. This tool will prove invaluable in making your cut-outs for electrical boxes, exhaust fans, etc. Other items that you will need are a tape measure, a utility knife, some carpenter’s pencils, a hand held drywall saw, a ladder that will be long enough to get you to the ceiling and if you can get one, rent one, or borrow one: a sheetrock lift or jack. This tool is not necessary but will make your job so much easier when doing ceilings. It is especially useful and almost essential if you are alone and have a high ceiling. The last thing that you need to make you job easier is a good set of saw horses to lay you drywall boards on when measuring and making cuts.

Lets assume that your room is studded and all the rough electrical, plumbling and duct work is in place. Your room is ready for drywall. When installing drywall, always start with the ceiling first. This allows the drywall used for your walls to butt up against the perimeter of the ceiling drywall to help support it. Make sure that the perimeter of your ceiling area has enough stud showing to secure drywall all around. If not, you need to install what are called ‘nailers’ around the ceiling perimeter to allow the edges of your ceiling drywall to be secured with drywall screws. A nailer is a board that allows you to attach the drywall board edges when a stud or choice is not present. When doing the ceiling, we need to go perpendicular to the ceiling joists and make sure the ends of the drywall around the ceiling perimeter always land on a ceiling joist or nailer. Also we need to stagger our ceiling joints as much as possible. If you have a 14 foot x 14 foot ceiling and are using 12 foot drywall boards, you are going to need one 12 foot board and a 2 foot piece to cover the 14 foot span. A drywall board is 4 foot wide so when you install the next 14 foot span of drywall, install the 2 foot board first and then the 12 foot board so that the 2 foot boards are on the opposite end from each other. Always make sure that the end of a drywall board that is going to be continued ends in the middle of a joist, stud or nailer.

The first thing that we need to do is take a look at the ceiling and see where any cut-outs need to be made for the lights, exhaust fans, etc. Lets say our first ceiling board has two recessed lights. We need to make two measurements: from the wall on a straight line to the center of the light on the length side of the drywall and from the wall on a straight line to the center of the light on the width side of the drywall. Transfer these measurements on to your drywall board by using your sheet rock square and carpenter’s pencil. Where the two measurements intersect will be the center of your recessed light. Now measure the diameter of the recessed light. The diameter is length across the light. Divide the diameter by 2 and use this measurement to draw a circle equal distance from your centerpoint. Use your drywall saw to caught out the circle on the drywall board so when you install the board the cut-out will line up with the recessed light. On both length-wise sides of the drywall board, you will see a slight bevel. Make sure you butt your next drywall boards bevel to bevel whenever possible.

Now that you have the cut-outs for your drywall board in place, it is time to hang the drywall board. Use your caulking gun to line all the ceiling joists with adhesive where the board will be plalced. If you have a drywall lift, place the board on it and lift it into place.The lift will hold it there so you can start securing it with drywall screws. If you don’t have a lift, I recommend having a helper to do the ceiling. A nifty little device that you can make is a ‘T’ out of 24’s. Make the top part of the ‘T’ about 4 feet long, the width of the drywall board. The length should long enough for someone to stand the ‘T’ upright from the floor to the drywall board at the ceiling You can make two or three ‘T’’s’ to help support the drywall board while you start fastening it with drywall screws. Fasten the board on all ceiling joists with drywall screws using your cordless drill. Make sure you fasten the drywall board around the perimeter of the ceiling either to the ceiling joists or nailers that you installed. I usually install my drywall screws about 6 inches apart on the length of the joist. Repeat this process until you have the whole ceiling done.

Before we start the walls, let’s talk about cutting a piece of drywall to length. Suppose that you need to cut your
8 foot drywall to 7 feet. Mark the front of the board at 7 feet.Use your drywall square to draw a straight line.Now take your utility knife and score the line that was drawn. I like to get about halfway through the board with my score. Next bend the board away from the score. This will leave the paper on the back of the drywall board to cut through. Go to the back of the board and cut through the paper. Your cut is complete.

When hanging the walls, you want to start at the ceiling and work your way down. You also want to hang the drywall horizontally. This will give you a beveled edge that butts up against the ceiling and the next piece of drywall that is placed under it. Remember to use the longest piece that you can to create the least amount of seams. Also make sure that you butt the drywall as tight as you can to the drywall on the ceiling. Use your caulking gun to place some adhesive on the studs. This is not necessary but it helps hold the board in place. If your board is not long enough to cover the enitre length of the wall, make sure the end of the drywall board on the continuation side ends in the middle of a stud. Secure the ends of the board while your helper holds it in place. Once the board is secure and won’t move, insert drywall screws about six inches apart over all the studs that are covered. Cut-outs for electrical boxes are done similiar to the ceiling. For example, lets take a 24 receptacle box. We need to measure the height of the box (top and bottom)from the floor and the width (both sides) from the corner where the board will start. Mark the measurements on the drywall board. Use your drywall square to draw straight lines until they intersect and make the outline of the box. Use your drywall saw and cut out the box so when you hang the board it will line up with the receptacle box. Repeat this process untill all the walls are covered. You ae now ready for spackle and tape but that’s another lesson and this is about cordless drill projects. I hope that this article gives you some insight and helpful hints to help you hang drywall and effectively make use of your cordless drill. For a large selection of brand name cordless drills, please visit http://www.justcordlessdrills.com. justcordlessdrills.com: ‘Quality Cordless Drills For Hard Working People’

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Technorati Tags: studs behind drywall

How To Hang Drywall, Or Not?

Dry ceiling before you drywall. This is literally the top tip when talking about how to hang drywall. Using a long builders’ level, check your wall studs for any warped boards. Only straight flat studs will give you a level surface on which to hang drywall. People, especially the female of the species will quickly spot the bulges if you fail to put furring strips on to the frame around items that may stick out beyond your drywall studs. It’s all in the eye when learning how to hang drywall.

How to hang drywall sheets is horizontally and from the top, down to the bottom. Be sure to draw an outline grid of your studs on the floor. When you want to find them later for hanging pictures on you really don’t want to rely on hammer sonar.

A top tip on how to hang drywall when you are working alone is to hammer four nails in a row into four adjacent studs about 50" inches from the ceiling. This enables you to lift the sheet (lift and manhandle with a straight back and use your legs only) and rest it on the nails. Hang all of the drywall upper sheets before going onto the lower sheets.

The well-dressed drywall hanger will of course have strong toe-protecting shoes. Line up the fixing screws with your floor grid marks and place screws in the dimpled area of the drywall about 2 inches apart. How not to hang drywall is with the dimpled surface facing inward! Later you will level off the dimples with joint compound.

Around the edge of the drywall sheet, place the screws 3/8" in from all edges and space them 7" inches apart. Across the face of each sheet, drive screws into the studs about 12 inches apart. If you miss a stud, and try a bit further over. You can fill the hole with joint compound the drywall hanger’s best friend.

The secret of how to hang drywall successfully is to have the right tools. Use a sharp rotary drill for cutting out shaped holes around light fixtures and windows etc. Loosely fasten the board over the light fixture or window, do the cutting then finish fastening the board. Over a window completely fix the drywall around the edge and then cut out the window.

Try to keep cutting of the drywall to a minimum but when you need to cut a sheet down to size be sure to mark the paper surface correctly. Then cut through the paper face with a clean sharp knife. ALWAYS KEEP FINGERS BEHIND THE CUTTING EDGE! Another top tip on how to hang drywall is to lift the panel up from your working surface and snap it downward along your cut line to break through the core.

When hanging the bottom sections of the drywalls, you do not line up the seams of each sheet. Therefore, start the second row with a half sheet. This will give sturdier and stronger drywall. The tapered edges should always butt together. Cut the panels about 1/2-inch short of the floor to allow for any unevenness in the floor or ceiling. The gaps at the bottom of the wall will be covered with your baseboard.

A final top tip on how to hang drywall when on your own is to raise each panel into place with a pair of foot levers. A sturdy piece of clean wood on top of a small wedge will enable you to lever the drywall sheet into position while you drive the first screws or nails.

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Technorati Tags: stud in drywall

Stud wall design plays an important role in noise transmission from room to room in your home. Staggered stud wall design can help soundproof any area of your home.

Construction begins with a wider than normal top and bottom beam, usually a 2 x 6 or a 2 x 8 instead of a 2 x 4. 2 X 4 studs are screwed in an alternating pattern along the base plate. The studs are spaced 16 inches on center across the beam and two 22’s are security each end to support the weight of drywall. This creates form of discontinuous construction. This prevents noise from being conducted from one sheet of drywall, through the studs, and into the next room.

Metal studs can also be used in place of timber to further reduce the conduction of sound vibrations. You may also consider increasing the amount of dead space within the walls to accommodate larger amounts of thick insulating material to help absorb sound. All seams in the drywall must also be properly sealed in order to block out unwanted noise.

Finishing the wall with denser materials such as brick, sheetrock, or plaster can also significantly reduce the noise level that is transmitted from room to room. Double layers of sheetrock can be used with an adhesive layer of glue or silicon caulking in between. By alternating seems out of wall covering, the soundproofing qualities of a room are greatly increased.

Special order thicker doors such as those used in commercial applications may also be needed to prevent sound from being transmitted. Common interior doors are lightweight and have a hollow center. Heavier commercial-grade doors block sound more efficiently. If you are installing double layers of drywall or sheetrock, you may also have to special order thicker doorjambs to accommodate the increased width.

Discontinuous stud wall design is ideal for walls separating the garage and the living space of your home, as well as typically noisy areas such as children’s playrooms and laundry rooms. Incorporating discontinuous stud wall design into areas such as your home office and bedroom can enrich your levels of rest and productivity by keeping out unwanted noise.

Discontinuous stud wall design used in conjunction with double layers of dry wall provides an adequate level of soundproofing for a fraction of the cost of using specially design soundproofing materials. The level of soundproofing achieved by changing the design of the stud walls and selecting denser building materials is usually adequate for the purposes of most homeowners.

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I have heard all sorts of stories over the years of the advantages in framing with steel versus wood studs. One time I even heard you could build an entire house with the amount of recycled steel from a large automobile such as a Cadillac. I find this hard to believe unless you’re building a very small home.

My personal favorite for framing with steel studs is that they are extremely straight. I have built nonbearing partition walls using 12 foot 3 1/2 inch wide steel studs and after the drywall you can lay an 8 foot level to check it for straightness on the wall with amazing results.

If you use 3 1/2 inch wide steel studs with 5/8 of an inch drywall you will get an extremely durable and sturdy wall. Framing was steel studs is common in office renovations or remodeling. Most of the steel stud framing is done via the drywall contractors.

Steel studs and termites do not mix. You’ll never have to worry about these little buggers or other uninvited house pests damaging your walls.

Over the years I have heard stories that steel framed buildings are earthquake and fire proof. They might be more resistant to fire than wood but keep in mind when metal is hot enough it will bend and warp making it unusable.

When I hear people talking about a fireproof building built with metal framing components my first thought is all of the other materials used in building the house that are not fire resistant. Don’t get a false illusion when buying a house framed with steel studs and think it is 100% fire proof.

As far as steel framed buildings being earthquake proof this is another story. I really can’t comment too much on earthquake damage to a steel building. The problem with earthquakes is they seem to create fires. So even if you’re building does survive an earthquake it could get damaged by a fire in the area.

I have framed more wood homes than steel homes over the years and my steel stud construction is limited to nonbearing partition walls usually located in office buildings. I love framing with metal because of its light weight and ease of construction.

I still love framing with wood. There is something about what framing that I have always loved and always will.

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First, the best method to fix your existing nail pops is to make sure that the head of the nail or screw is recessed about 1/32 inch. If it is sticking up, do not drive it too deep or you will break through the paper surface. If you do, the drywall will be severely weakened.

Next spread a little spackling compound over the nail pop area. Let it dry and then sand it down. Lay a straight edge over it to make sure that it is not too high. A slightly raised spot is better than making it too shallow. Let it dry thoroughly because the compound will shrink a little.

Paint the repaired area with drywall primer. Paint an area larger than the fixed spot so that the larger area will absorb the finished coat uniformly. This will make it almost impossible to detect that a repair was made to the wall.

The problem of nail pops can be caused by either improper drywall installation procedures by your builder or by damp lumber. Although lumber is supposedly kiln-dried, it can pick up moisture over time, especially if it has been out in the rain for a while.

Wall studs, which the drywall is nailed or screwed to, shrink as they dry. Unfortunately, they shrink the greatest amount (due to the orientation of the grain) in its depth dimension (nominal 4 inches).

If the drywall is nailed against damp wall studs and the studs shrink just a little as they dry, a tiny gap can form between the drywall and the stud. It doesn’t take much. If the drywall is bumped and pushed back against the stud, the nail head causes it to pop.

The best method to minimize nail pops is to use properly dried lumber. Since your project is a room addition, store the lumber in your garage, out of the rain, until it is used. If possible delay your construction until the weather is reasonably warm, but not during high humidity months.

Inspect the lumber as each piece is used because alignment of the lumber is important to make sure that the drywall makes good contact with it. Your builder can use any bowed studs in other areas so it is not wasted.

Make certain that proper drywall nails and screws are used and they are of the proper length. These are different than ordinary fasteners. Drywall fasteners have specially shaped heads so that they do not tear the paper when they are recessed. For 1/2-inch drywall, 1 1/4-inch angular ring shanked drywall nails work well.

If possible, have your builder wait a while to install the drywall after the wall framing is complete and the room is closed in. The longer you can wait, the better it is. This allows time for the framing lumber to dry and for the moisture content of all the pieces to stabilize.

The spacing of the screws and nails is equally important to minimize future nail pops and other problems. The maximum spacing for fasteners on drywall used for the ceiling is 12 inches on centers. This means that a four–foot wide panel should have at least five fasteners. For wall panels, the fasteners can be 16 inches on centers.

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There is more than one method for installing mass loaded vinyl to obtain maximum effect. The standard of the industry is to install the MLV directly to the stud or joist framing using an industrial stapler or heavy-duty roofing nails that have the large plastic heads. This method is known as the membrane or septum method. The MLV works well when placed on a wall or ceiling in a membrane fashion, however it can also be sandwiched between 2 layers of drywall or other type of wallboard. The jury is still out on what thicknesses of drywall is best. For better frequency diffusion, it is best to use a layer of 5/8′ drywall then the MLV as a septum (a sandwich) and then add a layer of ‘ drywall or Homasote. The dissimilar materials do help in the soundproofing effort especially when we are looking to get every STC point we can get with as little effort as possible.

There is not a lot of information on the Web in regards to alternate methods of mass loaded vinyl installation, hopefully we will be able to explore this here.
If you are constructing walls using the staggered stud method, it would be beneficial to actually weave the vinyl in an out of the staggered stud assembly itself. The above picture gives you a rough idea of how this would look. The key to weaving MLV (or any barrier material) is to seal the vinyl as best as possible. In the case of a horizontal weave (most common weave) it is best to overlap the seams by at least 1′ and seal that overlap with acoustical caulking as well as a quality seam tape. The weaving of MLV also aids in the defusing of sound waves. This works much like the dissimilar materials except ‘turbo charges it’.

You can also use the weave on a standard stud wall provided there is no drywall installed on either side of the studs. (just open studs) This weaving method can be foiled by stud cross members, so it is best to have only vertically installed studs if you are planning to do the weave. If you weave the MLV on a normally studded wall, there may be problems with the drywall sitting level on the studs. If your studs are 16′ on center, then every other stud will have 1/8′ of increased width compared to the studs that don’t have the MLV weaved a top of them. To keep the drywall even on both sides, a sound isolation tape can be adhered to every other stud that that is not covered with the weaved MLV this will make all of the stud surfaces flat and even and the drywall will rest evenly on the studs.

From the feedback of our contractors in the field, we have discovered that the more a wood structure is dampened, the better the soundproofing will be in a wall or ceiling assembly. This is especially true for impact noise from above. There are many ways to dampen a wood frame assembly and some are more effective than others. Some contractors have used blown in cellulose in order to dampen the joist or stud structures, but cellulose has no mass and though it will help to a degree, it is much less effective than using blown in closed cell foam, or my favorite (which requires some ceiling demo) is to line the cavity areas between studs and joists with a closed cell vinyl nitrile foam mat (America Mat is a great choice) for maximum dampening. The foam mat would be glued to the studs and the wallboard in the stud cavities (provided you have drywall on one side of the wall only). This insures that the wooden structure is completely dampened and if sealed properly will offer extra soundproofing as a result of sealing those cavities. Sealed dead air space is God’s natural soundproofing method, as I like to call it. I am sure you have read many of the analogies regarding sealed dead air. If you were able to seal the dead air space and actually create a vacuum in that space, you’d be amazed at the amount of sound transmission that would be blocked.

I hope this little narrative helps you especially if you are doing new construction for a home theater, or music sound studio in your home. Thanks for reading and learning together. This is Dr. Bob…..Out!!!!!!

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Technorati Tags: drywall to metal studs

There are many methods for applying Green Glue effectively; in this article I will describe one common but often times over looked Green Glue application. If you are renovating or completely remodeling you house and have stripped the walls and ceilings down to the bare wood studs and joists, there is a soundproofing method that that can be employed while the walls and ceilings are in this open state.

While these cavities are opened up it is a great idea to cut pieces of drywall that will fit into these joist and stud cavities and then apply Green Glue to the backs of these pieces of drywall and then screw them tightly into the cavities. If you are soundproofing a ceiling, the Green Glue laden drywall will screw directly to the bottom of the sub floor above. If you are adding drywall and green glue to wall (stud cavities) then you will need to be careful as the screws that screw in the Green Glued drywall will only be able to be screwed into the existing drywall on the backside of the wall. Generally folks who are soundproofing their home with Green Glue find that they need only apply the green glue between 2 layers of drywall on either side of the wall and that will be plenty of soundproofing, but in a ceiling situation where you are trying to stop both impact noise as well as airborne sounds from above, you want as much protection as you can get.

Now if you are able to add 2 layer of drywall with Green Glue in between the joist cavities you will be adding greatly to your soundproofing endeavor. Once you have completely lined the cavities with the drywall and Green Glue, you can then install common fiberglass insulation into the remained of the open joist cavity space. Place the insulation into the cavities loosely so that it will help to absorb the noise but will not transmit sound as it could if it were packed tightly into the cavities, this goes for stud cavities as well.

Once you have completed this part of your soundproofing project, you simply need to install 2 more layers of 5/8" drywall to the joists with a minimum of 2 tubes of Green Glue applied to each 4′ X 8′ layer of drywall that you put up. Three tubes of Green Glue per sheet of 4′ X 8′ drywall would be better, but as I always say, 4 tubes is a waste of money. Always put your soundproofing dollars where they can do the most good and never spend more than you need to in order to soundproof.

Well I sincerely hope this article has shed some light on some of the other uses of Green Glue as you are building or remodeling your home, office or industrial area. Thanks for reading and learning, this is Dr. Bob…Out!

Wraptails, made of what metals/alloys? – My Les Paul Forums

So the kind of sloppy stock R4 tail, light tail, brass stud was stock on the R4. I went to steel TonePro studs and stock tail. Brighter, little different tone and great sustain. B…   Read more…

Offering Accurate Steel Joist details, Steel Stud detailing at Low …

Offering Accurate Steel Joist details, Steel Stud detailing at Low Rates – OSD Services offers accurate steel joist detailing and stud details at affordable rates. We cater…   Read more…

Stud Welding – Help – MIG Welding Forum

Guys can any of you advise if you would expect any problems stud welding onto zinc plated material using a steel plated stud? Is it possible to reduce / eliminate the burn marke c…   Read more…

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If you insulate your loft well, you can save over a tonne of CO2 each year, and around 110 a year off your heating bill, according to the energy saving trust. With such savings, insulating your loft can pay back the investment required in under 2 years. There are many different materials to choose from when thinking about insulating your loft. The most popular type of material is mineral wool, which as the name suggests is derived from naturally occurring minerals. Popular brands include ‘Rockwool’. A similar option is glass wool, which is made from recycled glass and sand that are heated and spun into fibres. Popular brands include ‘Knauf’ and ‘Space Blanket’. You can also use organically derived materials to insulate your loft.

An increasingly popular choice is sheep’s wool, which comes in slabs made of fleece offcuts which are treated to make them fire resistant and insect-proof. ‘Thermafleece’ is an established brand. Other options include board from compressed wood waste, material made from recycled and scrap cotton, flax (brands include ‘Isovlas’), rolls or slabs of hemp (brands include ‘Thermo hemp’), and finally cellulose / paper (brands include ‘Excel Warmcel’ and ‘Homatherm’). With so many options, how should you choose? There are a number of different things you may want to take into consideration: -Insulation performance: this is measured by the material’s ‘U value’, which is a measurement of how fast the material conducts heat (or cold) -Cost: in s per square metre and -Qualification for government subsidies: in the UK, most people can get large government grants that cover much of the cost of insulating their home, but only when using certain materials -Renewable source material: is it made from material that will grow back? -Embodied energy: how much energy has been used to produce and transport the material? -Ease of disposal: is it biodegradable or recyclable? -Other considerations, such as its ability to deal with moisture, and also how easy and safe it is to install

All the materials listed above have similar insulation performance, with materials like paper and wood performing slightly better than mineral wool. Sheep’s wool is supposed to be particularly effective at keeping buildings cool in summer, because it releases moisture to keep cool. This can reduce peak temperatures by up to 7 degrees centigrade when compared to other materials. The prices of these materials are also very similar, with the exception of wood, which can be double the price of the others. Therefore in terms of straight performance and cost, there is not much to distinguish the different materials. However, in the UK, mineral or glass wool is the only material offered under the various different government grant and discount schemes. Under these schemes you can get your loft insulated by a professional contractor at a heavily discounted price, which often actually makes it cheaper than DIY. Provided your building is suitable, everyone can qualify for these discount schemes in the UK, and so for most people their choice of material is bound up with accessing these grants and using a professional contractor. For those determined to go the DIY route, there are some other considerations that can help you decide on one material versus another. For example you may be concerned about what happens to the material at the end of its life. Glass wool is the hardest to dispose of, being neither recyclable or biodegradable. Mineral wool is recyclable but not biodegradable. All the organic materials mentioned above are the easiest to get rid of, being both recyclable and biodegradable. Another consideration is the amount of energy used in the material’s manufacture. Glass wool is again the worst performer here, compared to all the other materials. You might also be concerned whether the material is made from renewable resources: all the organically derived materials are, but mineral wool and glass wool are not. Finally you may also want to think about other considerations, such as ease of installation, what happens if it is burnt, and ability to deal with moisture. For example, glass wool causes irritation when it comes into contact with skin (as does mineral wool), releases toxic smoke if burned, and does not perform well when wet. By contrast sheep’s wool insulation can be installed without gloves or protective clothing, is not irritating to the skin, and will naturally help prevent condensation. To sum up, the option that most people will find attractive is to install mineral or glass wool using a professional contractor, so that they are able to access government grants, and make sure the job is done properly. However, those going the DIY route should consider the benefits of one of the organically derived options, such as sheep’s wool. Author: Alex Perry Alex Perry is a founder of http://www.DownwithCO2.co.uk, which helps people cut their personal contribution to climate change through providing information and contacts. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Alex_Perry

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The good thing about them is that you can get them in practically any size or shape, you also have so much control over how they are implemented as there

are so many factors for you to change and consider to best meet your needs.

These types of ceiling have come a long way since they first started being produced, they now offer completely enhanced sound attenuation and absorption. Suspended ceilings also offer complete fire resistance and can be specifically tailored to meet the fire safety regulations of practically any building. Also they can face a lot of humidity problems, that is why it is important when choosing one to check that they can provide complete structure even when in very humid conditions.

If the building that you are installing suspended ceilings in, is a very hot or humid place you will need to know whether and make sure that they can resist the humid climate and that they will not weaken in these conditions.

Also when purchasing suspended ceilings you need to consider whether or not the ceiling is likely to be receiving any damage or impact. It is highly likely that in certain areas your ceiling is going to receive some sort of impact at times and result in tiles falling off etc, you need to consider this when you are choosing your ceilings as you want it to last as long as possible.

If you have any doubts about this then you need to speak with your supplier and make sure the ceiling is going to make it through certain impacts that you believe are possible, if they are not going to then you need to make sure that your supplier works on this and makes your ceiling up to the impact standards that you require. If you are installing these suspended ceilings in a area where your ceiling may fall under the health and safety requirements, this includes areas where food is prepared or fibre optics are used and computer industry related work takes place then you need to make sure that your ceiling is going to have a environmentally controlled installation. You will need to check this with your supplier in case you require this as there are many places that suspended ceilings can be installed where this is a major factor and could fall under the health and safety rules. When looking for suspended ceilings for your place of work or anywhere else you may need to consider how much light the ceiling is going to reflect, you do not want the ceiling to reflect too much light as this can be a distraction or just be generally annoying. When you are buying make sure that you check this in advance to installing the system as it can be a major problem once installed. All of your suspended ceilings tiles will need to be monitored and cleaned regularly otherwise you could end up receiving unnecessary damage, you can clean your ceilings tiles with sponges dipped in water and detergent. Author: James Baxer Find more about suspended ceilings at Knauf AMF Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=James_Baxer

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Agricultural land utilised by the burgeoning population, the cultivable land resource is shrinking day by day. To meet the food, fibre, fuel, fodder, and other needs of the growing population, the productivity of agricultural land has to be increased rationally. This requires the use of all resources judiciously. In India, the mineral gypsum is mostly used in the manufacture of cement, fertiliser, plaster of Paris, ceramics and distemper. Smaller quantity is used as soil conditioner, for carving and statuary purposes.

India has huge resources of natural gypsum of the order of 1120 million tonnes, of which recoverable reserves are estimated at 237 million tonnes. Over 95 per cent of the natural gypsum come from Rajasthan. Gypsum is chemically calcium sulfate dihydrate (CaSO4.2H2O). When dissolved in water, it yields calcium ions (Ca2+) and sulfate-sulfur ions (SO42-). Both of these ions are essential major nutrients for growing plants. In addition to this, calcium also plays a vital role in establishing and maintaining good chemical balance in soil, water and plants. Gypsum is one of those rare materials that perform in all three categories of soil treatment: an amendment, conditioner, and fertilizer. The usage of gypsum in agriculture can be grouped into following heads: Reclaims soil sodicity:

The sodic soils have exchangeable sodium percentage (ESP) more than 15, it must be lowered for soil improvement as well as better crop growth. The calcium supplied by gypsum replaces the sodium held at the clay-exchange sites. The replaced sodium can be leached from the soil as sodium sulfate to an appropriate sink. Decreases the toxic effect of NaCl salinity: Calcium from gypsum has a physiological role in inhibiting the uptake of sodium by plants. Thus plant are mitigate the sodium toxicity, which is more pronounced in the salt affected soils. Decreases pH of sodic soils: The sodic soils are characterised by the high soil pH (>8.5). Gypsum lowers the high pH of sodic soils or near sodic soils to 7.5 to 7.8. These values are in the range of acceptability for growth of most crop plants. Increased calcium uptake by roots when gypsum is applied can decrease the pH of the rhizosphere. Creates favorable soil EC: The more EC value of the soil is undesired for the crop growth. The high EC of soil are due to fertilizer application as well as by the weathering of soil minerals. Gypsum, being readily soluble, results in proper buffered solute concentration (EC) in soil to maintain soil in a flocculated state. Makes excess Magnesium non-toxic: Calcium is essential to the biochemical mechanisms by which most plants nutrients are absorbed by roots. Without adequate calcium, uptake mechanisms would fail. In soils having unfavorable calcium magnesium ratios, such as serpentine soils, gypsum can create a more favorable ratio. Thus render Magnesium non-toxic. Decreases heavy-metal toxicity: Calcium plays a role of regulator for balance of micro-nutrients, such as iron, zinc, manganese and copper, in plants. Calcium prevents excess uptake of many of them; and once they are in the plant, calcium keeps them from having adverse effects when their levels get high. Calcium in liberal quantities helps to maintain a healthy balance of nutrients and non-nutrients within plants. Gypsum also removes excess of Boron from sodic soil. It also regulates non-essential trace elements. Improves soil structure: Gypsum provides calcium, which, flocculate clays in acid and alkaline soil. A flocculated clays form friable soil with improved soil structure and tilth. It also allows for deeper, healthier root development and water penetration. Prevents crusting of soil: Gypsum application can decrease and prevent the crust formation on soil surfaces which result from rain drops or from sprinkler irrigation on unstable soil. It can prevent crusting that result when acid soils are limed and the gypsum is coapplied with the lime. Improves compacted soil: Gypsum can break up compacted soil and decrease penetrometer resistance. Combination with organic amendments also helps, especially in preventing return of the compaction. The soils applied with gypsum have low bulk density. Makes slightly wet soils easier to till: Soils that have been treated with gypsum have a wider range of soil moisture levels where it is safe to till without danger of compaction or deflocculation. Even a liberal application of gypsum is a good procedure for starting a piece of land into no-till soil management or pasture. Gypsum also improves the ability of soil to drain and not become waterlogged due to a combination of high sodium, swelling clay, and excess water. Stops water runoff and erosion: Gypsum improves water infiltration rates into soils and also the hydraulic conductivity of the soil. The use of gypsum can decrease wind and water erosion of soil. Improves swelling clays: Gypsum can decrease the swelling and cracking associated with high levels of exchangeable sodium on the montmorillonite-type clays. As sodium is replaced by calcium on these clays, they swell less and therefore do not easily clog the pore spaces through which air, water and roots move. Increases water retention in soil: Gypsum when applied to sodic soil reduced the levels of exchangeable sodium resulted in increase in water retention. The improved soil structure help in the more retention of water. Increases the stability of soil organic matter: Gypsum is a source of calcium responsible for the binding of soil organic matter to clay and gives stability to soil aggregates. Improves low-solute irrigation water: Gypsum is used to increase the solute concentration of low-solute water used for irrigation. Irrigation water from rivers that no longer have sources of leachable salts either penetrates poorly into soil or causes soil particles to degrade which results in low-water penetration. The problem can be corrected with surface-applied gypsum or application to the irrigation water. Improves water-use efficiency: Gypsum application increases water-use efficiency of crops. Improved water infiltration rates, improved hydraulic conductivity of soil, better water storage in the soil all lead to deeper rooting and better water-use efficiency. Efficiently use low quality irrigation water: Use of reclaimed municipal wastewater is important for conservation of natural resources. Reclaimed water can be satisfactorily used if amended with gypsum and water-soluble polymers. Improves fruit quality and prevents some plant diseases: The quality of fruit depends on the amount of calcium. Calcium is nearly always only marginally sufficient and often deficient in developing fruits. Calcium moves very slowly, if at all, from one plant part to another and fruits at the end of the transport system get too little. Calcium must be constantly available to the roots. In very high pH soils, calcium is not available enough; therefore, gypsum 1ff8 helps. Gypsum is used for peanuts, which develop below ground, to keep them disease free. Gypsum helps prevent blossom-end rot of watermelon and tomatoes and bitter pit in apples. Gypsum is preferred over lime for potatoes grown in acid soils so that scab may be controlled. Decreases loss of fertilizer nitrogen to the air: Calcium from gypsum can help decrease volatilization loss of ammonium nitrogen from applications of ammonia, ammonium nitrate, urea, ammonium sulfate, or any of the ammonium phosphates. Keeps clay off tuber and root crops: Gypsum can help keep clay particles from adhering to roots, bulbs and tubers of crops like potato, carrots, garlic and beets. Helps Earthworms to Flourish: A continuous supply of calcium with organics is necessary for the habitat of earthworms that improve soil aeration, improve soil aggregation and churn the organic matter with inorganic fraction of soil. Author: Sarvesh Shah Dr Sarvesh Kumar Shah Department of Agricultural Sciences, The Fertiliser Association of India, New Delhi Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Sarvesh_Shah

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The big question surrounding this material is the reason why there is a need for it to be diverted from the landfill. First, to understand why drywall is banned from the landfill, a look into what drywall is composed of is required. Gypsum is a naturally occurring mineral; it is composed of calcium sulphate (CaSO4) and water (H2O). Gypsum is mined from deposits formed by ancient seabeds.

If gypsum is a naturally occurring mineral then why can it not be sent to the landfill? The problem lies not with the calcium or hydrogen elements but primarily with the sulphur component. Within a landfill or other construction and demolition dumping sites with drywall, rainwater will begin to dissolve the gypsum and concentrated areas of sulphate will occur that may contaminate groundwater. High concentrations of sulphate in ground water pose a significant risk to the environment. Another serious problem that may occur is the result from the biological conversion of dissolved sulphate to hydrogen sulphide (H2S). H2S is a foul-smelling gas (rotten eggs).

It is produced under wet, anaerobic conditions, such as those that often occur in landfills. The presence of high concentration pockets of hydrogen sulphide gas may be released by landfill workers and can be lethal if inhaled. A remarkable characteristic of gypsum is its ability to be recycled again and again into usable products. Some examples include the production of new drywall, an ingredient for Portland cement, and as an additive for agricultural and composting operations. The Drywall collected within the RDN is transported to New Westminster and recycled back into usable wallboard products. Even the paper is re-used in the process and converted to the brown backing on new gypsum products.

Author: Mike Guy Mike, The Recycle Guy, is a leading advocate for the implementation of responsible waste management practices within the work place. To find out more about how to reduce, reuse and recycle take a look at http://www.earthtalker.com/. Be green, save the planet! Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Mike_Guy

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sector but if it is done wrong it could leave the walls of your property in terrible condition. Plastering can dramatically change the appearance of your walls. It will get rid of any dents or bumps that you have experienced whilst decorating in the past. By deciding to plaster your walls you will be giving yourself a smooth, even surface to carry out any decorating. It allows you to paint the interior of your home to look its best.

If you have never done any plastering before it is advised that you enlist the help of a professional to undertake the plastering work that needs to be done. By using a professional contractor you will be getting professional results. If you want to improve the appearance of your walls then it is advised that you take on the help of a plastering contractor. They will be able to do the job in a timely manner with minimal mess; they will also be equipped with all the tools needed to make sure the job is finished to the best it can be. These tools include: Steel float Hawk String line Plasterers trowel Straight edge Spot (something to stand it on) Claw hammer Plumb level Buckets Splash brush Old saw Trimming knife There are many different types of plaster, the two main ones being gypsum based and cement based. Gypsum plaster is mainly for use indoors as damp will attack it and make it crumble. The most common types of gypsum plaster are browning, bonding and metal lathing. Cement based plaster however is primarily used for outdoors, with its general use being rendering. This type of plaster can also be used indoors for areas that are susceptible to damp and require a greater thickness of plaster to cover it. As with painting, plastering needs a base coat. This base/undercoat may need building up in 2 layers depending on the condition of the walls and the thickness of plaster needed to improve them. The second layer of plaster should be applied whilst the first layer is still slightly damp but firm.

To achieve the best results from your plaster you should add plaster and water in equal measurements this should be done in a clean bucket using clean water and should be mixed until the plaster is a creamy constituency. When plastering materials with differing absorption, it is a good idea to key the surfaces to be plastered with a PVA bonding sealer. This prevents the plaster ‘going off’ (setting) at different speeds then when you come to applying the plaster you should push it firmly against the wall and move it upwards; keeping the blade of the trowel at an angle then moving it to be flat at the end of a sweep. Plastering within your home or property can make a real difference to the look and feel of it. It is something that is worth investing time and money into. It is however important that you use a professional contractor to carry out the work for you in order to achieve the best results. Author: Helen Cox Helen is the web master of ARCH Building Solutions; specialists in all aspects of Property Plastering. Please feel free to republish this article provided a working hyperlink remains to our site Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Helen_Cox

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I have been getting quite a few emails from homeowners wanting to know how to replace their old steel casement windows with new vinyl replacement windows or retrofit windows. Those are the type with the handle that you crank and the window opens outward. My instructional video didn’t cover these windows, so I am going to dedicate two articles to this subject. This first article will cover the removal procedure and measuring for your vinyl windows. Next week I will go over the installation procedure.

The first thing you need to do is order your vinyl replacement windows. You can’t remove the old windows until you have the new windows. So, let’s start with a single casement window, no fixed panels. Crank the window open from inside and you will see a metal lip approximately 1/2" wide extending from your drywall on all four sides. This part of the frame stays in place, so the new window is going to fit inside those lips. So, to get your width dimension, measure left to right from lip to lip, then subtract 1/4" to get in.

Do the same for the height. Let’s say you measure 35 3/8" width and 38 3/8" on the height lip to lip. You would order your new window 35 1/8" X 38 1/8". If you live out west, where retrofit frames are available, you want to order the retrofit style frame. In parts of the country where only replacement style frames are available, you will have to add trim to the outside after you have installed the window.

After your windows arrive, it’s time to remove the old window. Single casements with no fixed panels are the easiest of the casements to remove. When you crank the window open, you will notice two pivot assemblies. There is one on top and one on bottom. Cut off the metal piece where the pivot pin is attached. Just like that, the entire window frame and glass are removed. Now, remove the crank assembly by removing the screws holding it in place inside the house. The last step is to remove the protruding metal studs that you cut at the pivot to remove the window. The easiest way to do it is to clamp a pair of channel lock pliers or vice grips as close to the frame as possible, then raise and lower the vice grips to break the metal off. That’s it. If you have a combination of casement and fixed panels, you remove the casements as I described. Then, you have to remove the fixed glass. I used to put duct tape all over the outside of the glass. Then, I used one of those 2 dollar glass cutters that you can buy at the hardware store. Put a drop of household oil on the cutter tip before each cut. From outside, score the glass across the very top of the glass, the very bottom, and along each side. Then go inside, and using the tip of a screwdriver, tap the score all the way around the glass. Put a tarp or old sheet down outside the window, take the handle end of a hammer, and knock out the glass at the score. You will have a vertical metal bar in the center where the casement window locked. Using a reciprocating saw or a hacksaw, cut the bar where it meets the frame coming from the drywall. There will be bits of glass protruding beyond the metal lips. You need to knock those out, so they aren’t in the way when installing the new window. You can leave the glazing putty in place, since it will be hidden after you have installed the new window. PLEASE WEAR GLOVES AND SAFETY GLASSES DURING THIS ENTIRE REMOVAL PROCEDURE!! John Rocco has been installing replacement windows since 1978. To learn more, visit How To Install Windows

By John Rocco Published: 2/18/2007

Wood Fiber Reinforced Gypsum Board – Cheap Gypsum Board from China … (2) walled panels: Tianbang wood-fiber reinforced gypsum board thickness 10mm, 12mm mm. (3) the cover, cabinets, blinds flanges. (4) the ledge back plate, facades, parapet walls or food Purpose Calcifies (Gypsum) Board for Room Walls and Partition Characters lightweight gypsum and software, makes gypsum can be processed into various forms of processed wall. Averagely gypsum used for walls and in-finishing cove. Wall Materials – Furniture & Furnishings – maozedongwenxue is enhanced when wet.5) Impact resistant: 6mm mgo boards are at the same level with 9-12mm gypsum boards 6) Thicker MGO boards 8-12mm are much stronger Specifications:1) If one sheet of gypsum board on a wall… When it comes to fixing sound problems you have to look at either designing a wall that is mechanically broken up, or you have to use products that will absorb and stop sound from bouncing arou…

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‘Geez that looks easy? Why should I pay someone to do it for me when I can do it myself’? Well, here’s your chance to put your money where your mouth is. The answer to your first question is, ‘Yes. Home renovations are easy’. Actually, it is easy once you have a basic idea of what you plan on doing and how you are going to do it. Every good job always starts off as a good plan.

Now to answer your second question from earlier, ‘No. You don’t have to pay someone to do all the work for you now that you put a plan together and seen how easy it will be.’ You will only to need to come up with the cost of the supplies and maybe buy lunch for your brother-in-law who is giving his Saturday afternoon to help you out. Before You Begin -

Remove all unwanted molding, baseboards, batten strips, outlet covers and wall switches. Measure & Cut – With a chalk line or straightedge, start to mark a cut line. Make sure you cut deeply with a utility knife. Then, stand the sheet on edge and snap the cut segment back. Slice the backing with a knife. Hang Panel – Start at the corner, and place the first wall panel tightly against the ceiling. If the panel edge doesn’t center on a wall stud, trim it back until it does. Fasten Panel – Use around 1-5/8 inch sized screws to secure to stud. Then, drive the screws a 3/8 inch minimum from edge of the panel. You will need to place the screws a minimum of 12 inches apart all along the stud. Set the screws just below the surface of the drywall, but try not to break the paper facing. Fit Upper Panels – Keep the joints snug and avoid making joints at doors and windows. Place a sheet across the opening and cut out with a saw. Cut Around Outlets -

Measure from the edge of the box to the edge of the last panel. Measure from the floor to the top and bottom of the box and cut out with saw. Fit Lower Panels – Place the panel in position. For a tighter fit, use a wooden wedge to lift lower panel firmly against the upper ones. Finishing the Drywall – To smooth the surface for painting or wallpapering, the joints and fasteners will need to be hidden and it all depends on the type of joint you will covering. This is called taping. Use a drywall taping knife to spread joint compound into the recess created by the tapered edges of the drywall sheets. Smooth the compound until it is even with the rest of the board surface. Center the drywall tape over the joint and press it firmly into the compound. When you get the tape embedded into the compound all along the joint, smooth it with the taping knife. At the same time, fill all the nail dimples with compound.

Hey, relax! It’s not as difficult as it sounds. As long as you take your time and pay attention to what you are doing, you’ll be fine. If you feel as though that maybe this project is a little too much for you to handle on your own, call a professional. That’s what they are there for. Many of them do a great job at a reasonable cost. The key to a successful and well executed project is a great design. It is up to you to make the initial decision about the way you want your walkway to look and feel. By: Bill Healey Article Directory: http://www.articledashboard.com Making your personal preferences work within your budget is our team’s expertise. MyHomeUS is a full service design, remodeling, and construction firm specializing in local home improvement for New York City, New Jersey and Westchester. We can help you with every phase of your remodeling project by offering the best in home improvement solutions. Mudding the sheetrock. on Flickr – Photo Sharing! Daniel is in the far background of the photo with the black ball cap. He and his wife Heidi run the Daycare. Ben our youth pastor is in the red cap, and Joey one of our volunteers is in the Investigation into Toxic Chinese Sheetrock Drywall Goes National Investigation into Toxic Chinese Sheetrock Drywall Goes National. Swistle: Sheetrock and Flooring—What Could Be More Interesting? I DID off fef er the sheetrock guy some brownies. I put them on a plate and went out with them, and he said no thank you. But I liked what Denise said about how just because you don’t. Bill + nina’s dutchess digs: Stone, Sheetrock, Cabinets, Hex Tile The sheetrock has started going up, which has had two major impacts. First, it’s much easier to see the actual size of the rooms when you can’t see through the walls. Second, the house … Read more…

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